And back to Awisa. I had been told that we had to attend a funeral while in Ghana because they were just so different, so I jumped at the opportunity to go with my family. There were some differences, but for the most part it was the same sort of British style that we're used to. The only part of the ceremony that i hadn't seen before was the thanksgiving ceremony. This was at the end of the weekend to that all those who came to the funeral for their support(financial and goodwill). This one was a celebratory event with dancing and drums and such. During it a chief from a neighboring town came and had a fairly large procession with him. His entourage included an orator that talks to people for him; man that shakes hands and greets on his behalf; some dancers and a group of musicians. Oh, and of course, two people who held his umbrellas so he wouldn't have to get caught in the sun. Well, it was cool to see the chief. But whats more, everyone in the crowd pushed me out in front so I was able to dance for him. I joined his entourage for a little and the crowd went crazy. It was a lot of fun.
When we arrived to the village we first walked around from house to house meeting relatives. Everyone fits into the following categories: friend, sibling, parent or grandparent. They categorize extended family in with the nuclear family, so, i met a lot of papas and momas, brothers and grandmothers. Many of them would speak to us in Twi and luckily my brothers tought us just enough to get by: hello, how are you, i'm fine, etc. Although a lot of the elders would either only speak to us in English or poke fun at the fact that i didn't understand Twi by speaking to me for about 15-30 seconds and expect me to respond. Then when i looked confused, they would laugh and do it again. Little children in the town would follow us(me and Rihana) around with hails of 'Obruni, obruni!' and 'How are you?' They would even run up to Rihana and hug her or hold her hand and walk with her. That happened only to her since she's more white than I am. But the shouts of 'Obruni' and waving followed me the whole weekend.
Oh and by the way, I'm white here, the same way I'm considered black in the US. I knew that I'd be completely considered an obruni(foreigner), but i forgot that because Ghana is a black society, any racial deviance from that norm would be thrown into whichever category they can fit into, thats not black. So in the US and a half black/half white man, they say I'm black. Then in Ghana they say I'm white. I thinks its interesting that neither society would consider me mixed, unless prompted to do so. Just more proof that the idea of race is completely arbitrary and useless.
Back to the story.
After meeting everyone, we ended at the house where we were going to eat dinner. They told us that we had to go there for dinner because that part of the family had been waiting for us to slaughter a goat in our honor. When we arrived, it turns out that they actually wante us to slaughter the goat. Rihana couldn't handle it at all, being the city folk that she is and she refused to take part or even be present. So then I picked up the obruni slack and slaughtered it with the help of my brothers. It wasn't as bad as I had feared it would be. It was fairly quick and painless, and not messy at all. The only time that it got messy was when we were burning off the fur and some juices spurted out of it onto me.
After that we ate. The brothers(who the family calls "Boys, Boys") have a very frantic way of eating. Rihana and i get served our food, then the boys all sit/stand/kneel around a communal bowl. The meal generally starts pretty calmly, but the pace quickens ever steadily as they notice each other beginning to be outpaced. In order to save their food from being stolen, they begin to steal. They begin to grab food by the fistful and swallow with out chewing until rice is flying and someone grabs the bowl and runs away. We later learned that another technique they use is to hide containers near them while they eat. That way they are able to fill that extra bowl or plate without the others noticing, then when the meal is over they grab their bowl quickly and try to get away without anyone noticing. They are crazy. But they tell me its the best way to eat.
One last thing before I go. We also went onto their farm. The farms here are almost like walking into a forest. It was pretty nice. Tons of biodiversity.
1 comment:
hillarious! reminds me of our endless fights as children. they were all pretty pointless, but we were pretty competative!
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